The countryside of Provence
Today we explored the countryside of Provence.
This is the town of Gordes which is located in southeastern France, near the city of Avignon. The town was once occupied by the Roman Empire. By 1481, the territory of Provence was incorporated into the kingdom of France as a "province royale franchise". During World War II, Gordes was an active resistance village and was later awarded a medal, the Croix de guerre 1939-1945. On August 21, 1944, a German patrol was attacked by the resistance. The following day, the village was subject to violent reprisals. The Germans ended up shooting un-cooperative locals and a dozen homes were destroyed by German canons on one side of the village. On the other side of the village more than twenty homes were destroyed. After a period of reconstruction, the village started to attract artists like Marc Chagall and Jean Deyrolle who discovered the village in 1947 and brought many of their artists friends to the town.
We drove by vineyards and olive trees in the area. Historically, almond trees were planted in the region and although they are still present, olive trees have largely replaced them. Olive Oil is very important to the local economies in the area.
We stopped at the Senanque Abbey (Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque in French ). This Cistercian abbey (a Catholic order of monks and nuns) is near the village of Gordes. The abbey was founded in 1148 under the patronage of Alfant, bishop of Cavaillon and Ramon Berenguer II, the Count of Barcelona. The impoverished Cistercian monks came from the Mazan Abbey and set up temporary huts. The young community found patrons in the signers of Simiane whose support enabled them to build the abbey church in 1178. Among the existing structures, examples of the Romanesque architecture are the abbey church, cloister, dormitory, chapter house and the small calefactory, the one heated space in the austere surroundings so that the monks could write. A refectory was added in the 17th century, when some minimal rebuilding of existing walls was undertaken but the abbey is a remarkably unchanged from its origins. I found the whole area very beautiful with the lavender fields in front. We may have been just a bit too early this year as there was still quite a bit of green in the fields. Lavender fields bloom from mid June to mid August depending on the area and the seasonal weather.
In the 13th and 14th centuries, Senanque reached its peak, operating four mills and seven manors. The abbey also owned large estates in Provence. During the Wars of Religion, the quarters for the lay brothers were destroyed and the abbey was ransacked by Huguenots. During the French Revolution, the abbey's lands were nationalized, the one remaining monk was expelled and Senanque itself was sold to a private individual.
A view from the gardens. The site was repurchases in 1854 for a new community of Cistercian monks who were expelled in 1903. The monks who live at Senanque now, grow lavender and tend honey bees for their livelihood. It is possible for individuals to arrange to stay at the abbey for a spiritual retreat.
Lavender is said to heal insect bites as well as repel insects. It can also sooth headaches when applied to the temple. It also helps you sleep if you have the flowers by your pillow (never tried this). Dried lavender is used to repel moths in clothes closets. The essential oil also has antiseptic properties and was used in hospitals in the first world war to disinfect wards. Of course common uses are for aromatherapy (i.e. used in baths) and it can be found in household products like room fresheners and soaps. Although not used traditionally in cooking in France some chefs are experimenting with it.
Wheat fields and lavender fields are found in the same areas and often side by side. The wheat ripens just before the lavender season, so lavender fields are often bordered by golden bands of grain.
It appears that this castle is now abandoned given the state of the road going to it. I couldn't find out any information on it.
These photos were taken on stops we made in the countryside of Provence.
Some poppies on the side of the road.
This reminded me of an English garden. I did enhance the colours and reduce the clarity to make the photo more like a painting.
We stopped in the town of Sault for lunch. Sault is an old fortified village perched along the top of a high ridge overlooking a wide valley with large lavender fields spread out below to the south and to the west as you can see in this photo.
We had lunch at this restaurant. The village had numerous squares, cafes and shops.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Sault was the centre of an important glass industry but today the glass works are gone.
We found the village to be very open and relaxed with some friendly people. There was also a nicely restored central church.
