Morning in Trinidad and a trip to the Valle de los Ingenious
Just like every morning today was spent walking in the streets (before breakfast). Then our group went on a tour to the Valley of the Sugar Mills. The Valle do los Ingenious is a series of three interconnected valleys about 12 kilos (7.5) miles from Trinidad. This area was a centre for sugar production from the late 18th century until the late 19th century. At the peak of the industry in Cuba there were over fifty cane sugar mills in operation with over 30,000 slaves working in the mills and the sugar cane plantations that surrounded them. The Island became the world's foremost producer of sugar during the late 18th and 19th centuries. To prevent the sugar from spoiling rapid transport was necessary therefore a special railway line was laid down in the valley in the late 1880's. The railroad connected the Valle do los Ingenious with Trinidad and the port at Casilda on the coast.
Before we left for the valley, some of us wandered around Trinidad before breakfast. This gentleman was busy working - I liked the old cash register.
These guys were sitting around before starting work for the day.
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There was colour everywhere in the city. |
This was a colourful corner and a great spot for watching the early morning activity.
A peak inside a store. I'm thinking this was a bodega (convenience store specializing in distributing rations). The system establishes the rations each person is allowed to buy through that system and the frequency of supplies. A coupon book (libreta) taken to a ration shop provides the family with minimum amounts of rice, sugar, matches and oil. The booklets that families get indicates the exact number and ages of the people in that family. Products included in the booklets vary according to age and gender of the people. A person also must go to the bodega that is in their area of official residence. A government office specially created for the program distributes the libretto to all citizens each year. Products distributed through these stores are sold at subsidized prices. The booklets contains a page for every month where the clerk marks what products were withdrawn and in which quantities. The products are not always available so when they do arrive there are often long lineups.
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These people were arriving at the Valle do los Ingenious at the same time we were. Our guide told us that the Cuban government facilitates hitchhiking by using a system of points along main routes where certain vehicles are required to stop and pick up hitchhikers. Amarillo points along major highways are often full service rest stops for hitchhikers with water, peso-priced food and a 24 hour indoor waiting area. This system is necessary in Cuba as most people do not own cars and cannot afford buses.
At the Valley do los Ingenious there were a lot of sellers of all kinds of food, clothing etc.
When we arrived at Manaca Iznaga we ended up going on the historic steam train. We were fortunate to be able to take the train ride because there are many days when the train has equipment problems and is closed down. Here is a photo taken from the train showing the countryside. It was fun riding on the steam train and seeing more of the countryside.
A photo taken of a local house from the train.
In 1988 this area was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Due to the virtual extinction of the native Cubans through contact with diseases brought by the European settlers and attrition due to their poor treatment of slaves, the Spanish plantation owners imported slaves from Africa to work in the sugar cane fields and in the mills. The abolition of slavery by the Spanish in 1820 made this practise more difficult but it was not until the Wars of Independence in the 19th century that the dominance of the area came to an end as many of the sugar mills were abandoned or became run down. Most of the sugar mills are now in ruins however there are some intact structures including this tower. The147 foot tower was constructed sometime in 1816 by the owner of the planation of Manaca Iznaga. I was very happy to reach the top of the tower after climbing the 136 steps. The bell that used to hang on the top of the tower was used to announce the beginning and end of the work day as well as times for prayers. It was also used to sound an alarm in case of fire or slave escape.
A view from the top of the tower overlooking the plantation. The owner's house, Hacienda Ingenios is one of only 13 remaining estate houses in the Valley of the Sugar Mills. Some of the old slave quarters are used for housing and are in poor repair but the house and tower are well-maintained. The restored house is now a restaurant and gift shop.
A view of the valley from the tower. The USA received 33% of Cuba's sugar until the 1960's when the communist government took over and nationalized the farmlands. At this point in time the Soviet Union supported the Cuban agriculture by paying premium prices for sugar and by delivering fertilizers. Sugar was bought by the Soviets at more than five times the market price. The Soviets provided Cuba with 63% of its food imports and 90% of its petrol. After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Cuban agricultural sector went through a very difficult period. The answer of the Cuban government to the falling production was to strengthen the base of agricultural diversity by making a greater range of varieties of seed available to farmers. Already by 1994, the government allowed farmers to sell their surplus production directly to the population. Because of shortages of artificial fertilizers and pesticides, the farmers turned to organic methods.
We just spent time wandering around the area as there was a lot to see.
A view of inside one of the locals' houses. Our guide knew the owner so we were invited to take a look and walk around the property.
I walked down the road and met a very nice family who were happy to have their pictures taken.
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